Blowing MAIN A 30A fuse - Honda Goldwing Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Blowing MAIN A 30A fuse

Hi,
I'm wondering if anybody can please help me.
I have an 2006 Goldwing that keeps blowing it's Main A 30A fuse.
I've pulled almost all of the fairings off the bike looking for a visual wire that could be shorting out on the frame or another ground. Can't find anything wrong.
Also pulled the air filter to see evidence of mice. None!

One added bit of info. Last year I brought the bike into the dealer for a front brake recall and at the time the bike was being stored for 1 year. The bike didn't have it's battery in it at the time and the dealer hooked up a remote battery via jumper cables to acquire power to get the milage of the bike at the time of the recall. The mechanic accidentally hit the positive cable against the frame causing a spark. He told me that it was no big deal and when he found that the bike had no power he found that the main A 30A fuse was blown. The mechanic told me that the spark wouldn't of caused the fuse to blow. He replaced the fuse and it blew again. Did this 2 more times and then said the the bike might have a short somewhere and wanted to charge me to find it. I turned him down and took the bike home.

Can anyone advise me or guide me please.

Thank you
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 10:13 PM
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Who took the Battery out and when ?.

1. With the battery out, and a remote battery hooked to the bike ground and nothing a connected to the bikes Positive cable, and the + lead from the remote battery touches the Bike frame, you are putting a short across the remote battery.
I can not see how the fuse was blown. one end of the fuse is effectively attached to the positive lead for the battery, which was not attached to anything ( an Open circuit) no current flow through the fuse, to cause it to blow.
It sound to like the fuse was blown before the bike was taken into the shop.

If it's now blowing fuses, I suspect maybe that's why the Battery was removed in the first place.
There is obviously a short circuit that keeps blowing the fuses but I'm not convinced the Mechanic had anything to do with the fuse blowing situation. unless somebody got another idea.
Might want to disconnect the power cable at the alternator and see if it still blows fuses.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 11:45 PM
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Ron is correct. The + side of the battery goes to the Main Fuse B (120A) and to the Main Fuse A (30 amp) Fuse #4, (tie point). On the other side of the main fuse A is the Ignition Switch and then the ST.Stop Fuse #13(10 amp), the Engine Stop Switch. If you pull the fuse #13 (St.Stop fuse), you isolate the rest of the circuit past that fuse. If when you pull fuse #13 and it still blows the 30 amp Main fuse, you must suspect the Ignition Switch. That would be the only thing left in that circuit. So....pull fuse #13. Put in a new 30 amp Main fuse. Connect the battery. If the fuse blows, I would suspect a bad ignition switch. Isaac

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Ron and Dreamweaver.
Ron, as an answer regarding to who pulled the battery prior to the fuse blowing;
I pulled the battery out 1 year prior to that for storage purposes.

Just a bit of history of what's going on here.
A year prior to all this I did a 10,000 km trip through the USA and made it back with home with no problems. I then prepared the bike for storage eg: fogged the cylinders, removed the battery and elevated both wheels off the ground (I live in Ontario, Canada). The bike was running just fine when I stored it in my house garage. The bike stayed in storage for the following season due to me being in the process of moving.
In the spring of 2012 I received a letter in the mail from Corporate Honda regarding the front brake recall. I called the dealer and asked if they needed to power up the bike for the recall and they said no. So, I trailered the bike to the dealer, they did their recall checks (which everything checked out OK), and then the mechanic asked me for the milage of the bike which I couldn't remember at the time. That's when the mechanic hooked up an extra battery via his jumper cables and accidently hit the frame of the bike with the positive lead causing a spark. When he then put the key in the ignition and turned it to the "ON" position to check the milage of the bike for his records, there was no power. That's when he found that fuse #4 (MAIN A 30A) was blown. He replaced that main fuse and it blew on him 2 more times before I told him that I was taking it back home to investigate.
And this is where I stand now.
I've removed most of the fairing pieces and have visually looked for wires fraying on any kind of metal or frame parts.
Don't know what else to do next.

DreamWeaver: if I pull fuse #13 (10Amp) and it no longer blows, then what do I check?
What is the "ST.Stop"?

Thank you both for helping me

Rob
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06wingaroundtheworld View Post
Hi,
I'm wondering if anybody can please help me.
I have an 2006 Goldwing that keeps blowing it's Main A 30A fuse.
I've pulled almost all of the fairings off the bike looking for a visual wire that could be shorting out on the frame or another ground. Can't find anything wrong.
Also pulled the air filter to see evidence of mice. None!

One added bit of info. Last year I brought the bike into the dealer for a front brake recall and at the time the bike was being stored for 1 year. The bike didn't have it's battery in it at the time and the dealer hooked up a remote battery via jumper cables to acquire power to get the milage of the bike at the time of the recall. The mechanic accidentally hit the positive cable against the frame causing a spark. He told me that it was no big deal and when he found that the bike had no power he found that the main A 30A fuse was blown. The mechanic told me that the spark wouldn't of caused the fuse to blow. He replaced the fuse and it blew again. Did this 2 more times and then said the the bike might have a short somewhere and wanted to charge me to find it. I turned him down and took the bike home.

Can anyone advise me or guide me please.

Thank you
Does it blow as some as he plugs it in or does it blow when he turns the key on.If it blows in the first case I would say you have a short in the wiring going to the switch.If it blows when the key is turned on then you have a shorted component/load or wiring.In the second example the First thing I would do is disconnect any thing that's not factory(add on access.).If that doesn't cure it I would pull all the relays and fuses and then with a new fuse start reinstalling them until the fuse blows again.This is a cheap and fairly easy way to narrow it down to a particular circuit.

PS Just noticed you are in Ontario.Where abouts are you?

Fatwing Chris
If I'da known it would last this long I'da taken better care of it(not talkin about the Wing)

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Last edited by Fatwing Chris; 09-02-2013 at 09:04 AM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 09:31 AM
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Looks like you might have a helping hand close by.
I should stay out of this I'm working with a 1500 service manual and hoping the starter circuit/Battery circuit are pretty much the same.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Blown Main A 30 Amp fuse

Fatwing Chris;

As an answer to your question: the fuse blows when the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position.
And I live just outside of Orillia, Ontario.

Thank you
Rob


Ron;

I could use and appreciate all the help I can get.
I welcome any and all advise and guidance you can give me.
Thank you
Rob
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamWeaver View Post
Ron is correct. The + side of the battery goes to the Main Fuse B (120A) and to the Main Fuse A (30 amp) Fuse #4, (tie point). On the other side of the main fuse A is the Ignition Switch and then the ST.Stop Fuse #13(10 amp), the Engine Stop Switch. If you pull the fuse #13 (St.Stop fuse), you isolate the rest of the circuit past that fuse. If when you pull fuse #13 and it still blows the 30 amp Main fuse, you must suspect the Ignition Switch. That would be the only thing left in that circuit. So....pull fuse #13. Put in a new 30 amp Main fuse. Connect the battery. If the fuse blows, I would suspect a bad ignition switch. Isaac
Might want to start with what Isaac has suggested here.
Sounds like Chris got a handle on it also. I'd follow what has been suggested above.
Best of luck and keep us posted.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2013, 01:47 PM
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Pulling the St.Stop fuse, 10amp #13, isolates the rest of the circuit from the ignition switch. The ST. Stop fuse feeds the Engine Stop Switch (on the right handle bar) and a bunch of other relays,sensors etc. So, if you pull #13 and turn the ignition switch on, and the 30amp main fuse blows, the problem is most likely in that area. (ST.Stop is just what it sounds like Start/Stop). Let us know what you find. Isaac

No river is shallow to a man that can't swim..

2007 GL 1800 (VA)
2005 Yamaha FJR 1300
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 07:10 PM
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Sounds like you have an expossed wire some where .start at the fuse block&change it out
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