1982 gl1100 - Honda Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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1982 gl1100

Hi new member. I've been looking for a site that has some members who would be able to help me. I own two 1982 gl1100. The first one was a base model so I upgraded to an aspencade with all the bells and whistle. Ok for what I need help with.

When I purchased the aspencade it needed the starter relay replaced. Replaced it. Oil change; it came out milky. i took the carb off and cleaned to the best of my ability. New spark plugs, I've added sea foam to both the oil and the fuel. I will be doing another oil change in next few days. I need to get new glass fuses and will be replacing all of them.

The issue I'm having is when I try to go for a test drive I was able to get it up 30-35 playing with the clutch to keep it from stalling out. Does anyone have any idea on what I should look into next as to why I can't get above 35? The bike wide open throttle seems to bog down. What could it be; carb?, clutch? Any and all help is appreciated.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 06:04 AM
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Welcome along to the GWOF from Pa.

We have a few very talented mechanics on the older Wings here at the site. I'm sure one of them will be along shortly to lend a hand




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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 06:11 AM
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I think you will have to a better job on cleaning your carbs and then synchronizing your carbs. You mention milky oil, thats a sure sign of a gasket or seal leaking antifreeze in the oil, might be a good idea to have a rad pressure test.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick responses. I've been contemplating taking the carbs into a shop just to be sure they are top notch. When I did it I was just trying to get everything running first. As for the oil, the bike sat next to a shed over 5 years when previous owner got it from his uncle. So I was kind of hoping it was that. I'll stop at autozone today for a pressure tester.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 07:35 AM
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1/ Pull the plugs and check the color of the plugs. A black plug could show which carby is getting too much fuel. A wet plug shows which is not firing.
2/ With the plugs out, do a compression check. Followed by a wet compression test.
3/ Put in a new air filter.
4/ Replace the fuel filter.
5/ If it is still not pulling high rpms loosen the gas cap.
6/ Still not running high rpms...............start thinking of the electrical side. Spark plugs, lead wires and caps.
7/ No luck there it could be the coils.
8/ What...................it is still not running into the high rpms in higher gears. Wait for Tatanka to chime in.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 12:40 PM
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"Eric the Aussie Hoon" has you headed in the right direction. I echo flash's point about not just cleaning the carbs properly, but also setting things like the float drop and the pilot screws. And, the first thing that came to my mind with your symptoms was that it can't breathe (dirty air filter) and/or can't drink (fuel filter and gas cap vent like Eric mentioned.)

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1995 1500 Aspencade named "Cochise"
1985 1200 Aspencade named "Tatanka"
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 10:49 PM
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These bikes have a bunch of vacuum lines on the bottom of the carb and they can get heated, brittle, crack, and start leaking. An easy test is to use some brake cleaner in this area. If you have a leak, your motor will change RPM. It may lead you to which (if not all) lines need to be replaced. Easy test - not as easy to fix (pulling the carb rack). I've pulled mine enough that I'd suggest that if you do pull it, order a carb rebuild kit from Randakk's Cycle Shop and rebuild the internals of the carb. Then you can set the float like Kevin (Tatanka) mentioned.

The Sea Foam treatment is a great move. That will start you in cleaning out the fuel system and motor internals.
Keep us posted.

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84 GL1200 Aspy
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Hey sorry it took so long to reply. I've been super busy. Well I figured my issue out. My right rear chamber wasn't working properly. So I was only firing on 3 cylinders. So I've been tearing the engine out of my old bike(basic) to put in the aspencade. While tearing it out I decided to take a look at the timing. Any idea why the timing marks would have rust on them? Cause for concern?

Last edited by Kevin Camp; 05-16-2017 at 07:39 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:02 PM
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Is the rust by the timing belts - under the timing belt cover?
Or are you talking about through the site window on the top of the motor - inside the motor?

The first I wouldn't be too worried.
The second I would be concerned.

Tim Schutter
84 GL1200 Aspy
Freedom is not the right to do as you please; it is the liberty to do as you ought.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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It's under the timing marks. On the f2 mark. F1 is rust free. Trying to add pictures but having a rough time.
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